DESIGNSPIRIN
DESIGNER SERGEI SPIRIN
As for my personal opinion on this issue, my preference (based on the experience gained in the practice of application) is for walls made of AERATED CONCRETE ...
HELPFUL INFORMATION :
Official site of "ROCKWOOL" insulation:
"IZOSPAN" - vapor barrier films, waterproofing, wind protection:
"FIBROTEK" - vapor barrier films, waterproofing, wind protection:
PROFESSIONAL FASTENING:
Wooden I-beams and SIP panels.
The maximum beam length is 12m!!!
LVL-BEAM is a composite structural material. Application: ceilings, unsupported spans, truss systems
Calculation of wooden floor beams.
(link to a third-party resource with useful information)
You can get acquainted with a brief description of the materials on the market in the article:
Frame walls
In the documents below and links to i-net resources, the order of the main actions associated with the construction of frame structures is indicated, as well as accents are placed on the key points of various frame nodes.
There are several technologies for building a "framework". What is their difference?
Main - in the method of erecting the frame structure itself.
If roughly (discarding construction methods similar to building from SIP panels), then there are two options.
In the first version, frame walls (4 independent facades) are assembled on the ground, and then mounted on the floor beams in "box".
The method is ideal for small 1-2 storey houses of simple shape, with a wall length of up to 8m.
In the second option, the wall frame posts are mounted sequentially one after the other, directly on the floor beams, using temporary braces, stops, etc.
This method is ideal for large-scale structures or buildings with a complicated facade.
(for example, with a bay window).
Otherwise, the sequence of works on the construction of the frame has no fundamental differences.
The frame is based on a beam 50x150 or 175-200mm, depending on the design of the house, as well as_cc781905-5cde-3194-bb3b-136d
As a heater, as a rule, ROCKWOOL mineral mats (or equivalent) are used.
The material of the cladding framework is OSB-3(4), 12mm.
The question often arises - from which side to make the sheathing with OSB-plate? The question is not idle.
The fact is that there are "Canadian", "American", conditionally - "Scandinavian" methods of erecting a frame, formed from accumulated experience, based on a specific climatic zone, on the availability of a particular material, on mentality in arranging your life, etc. ... If you don’t go into details, then for the Middle Strip, for a homeowner with an average income, ideally will be a 150mm frame, sheathed on both sides with OSB ...
If you plan to do the interior decoration from drywall, then you can do without the inner lining of the frame with OSB boards. The cost savings will be significant, without reducing the quality of the structure being built.
If the object being built is of "secondary" importance (for example, a "Summer Kitchen" for all-season use, a garden house on an unguarded plot, change houses and utility rooms for various needs, etc.), then, as a savings on interior decoration, it is better to cover the boards with OSB boards from the inside, closing the joints boards with a decorative strip.
Of course, in all cases it is important to correctly follow the sequence of steam and hydro wind protection. The principle of the arrangement of layers is the same as in the device of an insulated roof.
From the inside - vapor barrier on a min. plate, further, through the crate - OSB or GKL.
From the outside of the frame - hydro-wind protection, then, through the crate - facade decoration
(lining, siding, etc.).
Internal partitions, when sheathed on both sides with OSB boards, can be made without vapor barrier, EXCEPT for wet rooms (bath, sauna, hammam, etc.)
The floor layers of the frame structure are made similar to the walls (roof).
As a rule, in in most cases beam 50x170 (7) is used as a log .
On the cranial bar of the lag (or the OSB support bar previously attached from below), a draft floor is laid (edged board or, better - OSB-plate, 9mm).
Further - the draft floor and logs are covered with a hydro-windproof membrane. Then, the heater is laid. A vapor barrier is laid on the inside of the floor frame. On it - a crate.
On the crate - a floorboard. But better - OSB-plate in two layers. With this option, you can use practically any finishing material (tile, laminate, parquet).
Ceiling layers (in unheated attic space) - similar to wall and floor layers. Particular attention must be paid to the tightness of the vapor barrier layer.
All matters relating to frame housing construction are set out and regulated
"SP 31-105-2002. Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family residential houses with a wooden frame",
DOWNLOADin *doc format
and
"SP 22.13330.2011. Foundations of buildings and structures " Updated edition of SNiP 2.02.01-83
DOWNLOADin *djvu format
Below is a link to a third-party site, where the topic regarding frame construction is most fully disclosed.
I find it especially entertaining embedded videos about the experience of the world famous carpenter Larry Hohn
The following videos contain useful information that focuses on some important points frame housing construction:
Frame house - important parts of the frame:
Corners and lower ceiling of a frame house:
Fasteners in a frame house:
The following are links to the video, which more than clearly shows the process of mounting the "skeleton" on its own.
The construction was carried out by non-professionals and is not a benefit, ALTHOUGH a more professional construction process,
as well as the filmed video on the open spaces of i-neta, I did not come across. I am happy to recommend: